Brushbow: Species Appropriate Diet2

SPECIES APPROPRIATE DIET II
© Lynn Harrison 2003

Over the last couple of years friends have told me I should write my own book on the Species Appropriate Diet for the many raw recruits making contact for advice on their new venture! However as I do not proclaim to be either a canine nutritionist or a vet I decline from a book because I wouldn't dream of implying that the way I apply natural feeding to my own dogs is the way. All I know is that the way I do do it suits them extremely well. So, another article enlarging on my first may fill the gap from sparking interest to putting into practice.

Although I still make a point of reading new natural feeding books as they become available, continuing the learning curve, the knowledge I gained from being on an Internet raw List in 1997 has been of the most value. Run by an astute English lady who had no qualms in tearing you off a strip if you started deviating from a true course, there were many members around the world whose contribution put us all on a higher plane in the quest to feed as true to the wild as possible. With the gradual increase of worldwide owners turning to raw feeding, the 'extended family' List became too big to manage and is now defunct. Besides, some of the newer members were starting to go full circle in as much as they were trying to bring the concept back into convenience packaging and daily balancing!

Trial and error in the early days also went a long way in laying the foundation of the method I practice today. Having working dogs of various ages narrowed my margins of error considerably to allow the maximum performance levels for each individual.

Ratio
The Species Appropriate Diet is based on 75-80% raw meaty bones. The other 20-25% is made up of offal, muscle meat, veg, eggs, seeds, oils, fruit and some vitamins and minerals. No grain or dairy is fed, and absolutely no kibble. I do not advocate or advise feeding raw meaty bones and kibble together in the same bowl or on the same day. I, and several others, did not experience any problems in changing straight over to the raw diet without an introductory period of mixing the two. In my opinion, those permanently feeding both should not claim to be raw feeders, and are playing Russian Roulette with the well-being of their dogs' digestive tracts. They will not obtain maximum health benefits, and neither will those who feed meaty bones but only in minced or ground form.

Balance
During the summer months I tend to balance (that is, complete the 100%) over 3 or 4 weeks, but in the winter over one week as we are off racing most weekends and I like to prime the dogs for each race. So, balancing for one week will see approximately 5 days of raw meaty bone meals and two days of various combination meals of the supporting products.

It is very important to realise that natural feeding has never been, and should never be, balanced in every meal. Variety is the spice of life, so they say, and for good reason where the diet is concerned. Different foods provide different nutrients and by 'rotating' as in the wild, digestive tracts are not bombarded continuously by any one, allowing recovery from each type of food and thereby creating a very healthy immune system. Feeding an adult once per day is perfectly adequate and, ideally, one day per week should be a day of fasting to allow the body to have a rest from all assimilation, but the nearest I can get to this is to feed mine really early one day and very late the next. Sometimes an individual dog will have a complete aversion to one type of meat or veg. Simply don't feed it so often if at all - there are plenty of alternatives on this diet!

'Hard'
The types of raw meaty bones I generally use are chicken and lamb and, to a lesser extent, venison and turkey, pork even less. Daily quantities for a medium-sized dog (Siberian) are 4/5 chicken wings, or one chicken carcass, or one chicken quarter, or half a whole breast of lamb, or one lamb sternum rack, or one lamb rib rack. My own dogs aren't too keen on skinned rabbit (probably because rib cages are very spiky) or raw fish (shame on them!). I haven't brought myself to source whole wild bunny for them as I cannot quite come to terms with a face eating a face in my kitchen, but I am sure they would respond favourably as does my sister's crossbred who catches her own - the pelt no doubt buffering the needle-sharp ribs. One medium sized bunny would be quite a large meal for a medium-sized dog. I only use venison rib cages from small deer, their larger bones every bit as hard as beef bones. All these things I term as 'hard' meals.

Even the larger bones of lamb and turkey can prove a challenge, and dogs like Siberians will rise to that challenge to the detriment of wearing away their lips, gums and teeth for as long as it takes to dispose of their 'prize'. However, whole bones that can be eaten within a few minutes, together with the raw flesh and skin attached are ideal and clean the teeth and gums better than any commercial gadgetry, and do away with 'dog's breath' too. A clean mouth is no longer a vessel to transport germs internally for a host of related illnesses, some with mortal consequences.

'Soft'
Beef is brought into the diet via raw muscle meat (and some offal). Other muscle meats of chicken, lamb and venison are also used, often fed in one lump for chewing benefit. Muscle meat is useful for adding extra protein for the working dog, but care must be taken in keeping it as a part of the ratio of the 20-25% of the non-meaty bone content. Meaty bones are far more important than muscle meat alone as many essential nutrients are found in the bones themselves. Raw offals include ox liver, lamb kidneys and hearts, again fed whole. Raw eggs are very beneficial; the shells can be dried and ground if not readily eaten. I do use canned (excuse the swear word) Pilchards. Raw vegetable portions seem to be a point of controversy but it must be remembered to keep them well within the non-meaty bone ratio - the bunny's tummy contents in relation to its whole body shows the correct perspective. All these things I term as 'soft' meals.

Most above- and below-ground veg are acceptable, although I limit the types to a maximum of three in one sitting - aiming in particular for at least one of spinach, broccoli, sweet potato or peppers for their high nutrient content. The veg always needs to be crushed into tiny pieces (as a prey herbivore would ingest) as dogs are unable to otherwise break the cell walls to access the nutrients - if you feed a whole carrot, it will come out the other end in the same form as it was swallowed. Cold water can be added to 'dry' veg in a blender to assist the crushing. However, most ripe fruits can be fed whole without crushing. Veg and fruit should be fed immediately following preparation as they lose nutrients quickly. My dogs often graze grass and eat dirt, roots and bugs at certain times of the year, obviously topping up their seasonal nutritional requirements.

Method
Generally, for every three hard meal days, I feed a soft meal. Soft meals are an ideal vessel in which to administer (and hide!) veg and supplements, and also serve to allow mouths a breather from bone crunching. A soft meal could consist of 5oz ox liver, 1 heaped tablespoon prepared veg, 1 teaspoon ground Pumpkin Seeds, 1 tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive Oil, 400 ius of Vit E and 1 raw egg.

The quantities I have quoted for both hard and soft meals are approximate as each dog is an individual, but are certainly in no way 'way off' the mark. Tweaking for size/sex/metabolism/working should therefore be very subtle. Quantities in general will at first seem a little shy but when you observe that stool volume is virtually halved, you don't need to be a rocket scientist to conclude that what natural diet is going into the body is actually being utilised and not passing out in the same quantity as was eaten! When a dog's stools become very hard and dry, a soft meal will correct. Likewise, soft stools can be firmed up by next applying a hard meal.

The supplements I use, all in moderation of perhaps once or twice per week per dog and certainly not all at the same time, include Ester C with bioflavinoids 500mg capsule, B-Complex capsule, Kelp tablet 400mg, Multi-vitamin and mineral tablet, teaspoon crushed sprouted Alfalfa (note: only sprouted Alfalfa should be used as the seeds contain a toxin), teaspoon ground Pumpkin Seeds, teaspoon ground Sunflower Seeds, Fish Oil 2000mg capsule/s + Evening Primrose Oil 400mg capsule/s (together), 1 tablespoon Extra Virgin Olive Oil or Flaxseed Oil + Vit E 400iu capsule (together). I use these supplements much less in the summer months of less activity. Ester C can be upped to several doses per day for several days ('til stools start to soften) in the face of stress or injury; it is a good healer. All tablets are crushed first to allow better absorption. Avoid purchasing the cheap supplements - you get what you pay for.

Supplements are used off and on, especially during working periods, to support the natural diet. Whilst we feed as close to the wild as we can, we are still feeding items that have been produced by Man one way or another - many arable areas are now lacking minerals in the soil, and domestic food animals have to eat what they are provided with, as opposed to the free-roaming prey of the wild. In addition, most meat isn't fresh killed when you use it and is minus the head - eyes are a source of Vit E for example. (Fruit and veg, though, are best fed totally ripe when their enzymes are of benefit.)

Choice
In order that the working dog's system is free from digesting at the time of strenuous activity, it is sensible not to feed whole bones the day before. Raw food takes about 6 hours to digest but obviously chunks of bone will take longer. The Species Appropriate Diet contains a fair amount of water, and most owners are quick to notice that puddle-dipping becomes a thing of the past, or greatly reduced. Of course, plenty of drinking water should always be available in any situation, but intake is noticeably less than grain feds.

It is appealing that on this diet the owner, especially the performance owner, not only has the choice of what produce (and when) to feed his dog but the choice of quality too - organic and free range for human consumption being the ultimate. Not so with commercial feed. The only reason the manufacturers insist that a dog's diet must be balanced every day and that they are the best people to decide that balance is because they have a product to sell - one that is easily packaged and has a long shelf life - for maximum profit margins. How interesting it would be to see all the ingredients of one bag laid out in their original state and then determine their initial quality (and benefit to a dog), then their finished quality in that bag after processing. Nutritious and balanced? Highly debatable. Also, why is it that I have never heard of a raw-raised dog suffering bloat or diabetes?

Although this article is simply an extension of my first by the same title, neither should be used as the only source of information to effect a change to raw feeding. At least the book "Give Your Dog a Bone", written by a vet, should be purchased for a full overview before any change is made. However, do not expect your local vet to enthuse about YOUR choice to change diet - many have only studied nutrition briefly with lectures by commercial dog food manufacturers, who then keep them sweet with various incentives

Detox
However, one thing that is barely covered in the diet books, if at all, is the matter of detoxification. This is the sign your dog will most probably show after a couple of weeks on raw. It is nothing to worry about as it is simply the toxins leaving the body where they know they can, which is what you want. The sign is often the reappearance of an ailment the dog has had in the past - runny eyes, dirty ears, skin patches, scratching, etc. There is no point in using internal medication to suppress this, but topical applications can ease the situation if simple bathing doesn't. Sometimes a slight loss of weight is observed; sometimes small shards of bone can be found in the stools temporarily (as with an owl pellet). Detox can take from a few weeks to a few months but, all the while, you cannot help but notice that your dog has an air about him that shows overall health and vitality.

Many thanks to Siberian owner Sue Blake for casting her eye over this article and making a few suggestions. Sue went raw shortly after I did and located the raw List mentioned.

FEEDING OF THE ANCIENTS
Lynn Harrison 2006

15 yrs young

Now that your dogs have been fed a natural diet for several or all of their years, you shouldn't be at all surprised if they enjoy a long life. They may well go past the average age for their breed, and beyond. It is known that small-sized dogs have a longer life expectancy than medium-sized dogs, medium dogs longer than large, large longer than giant. Now the different sections have full potential to exceed these accepted 'sell-by dates' of the modern era of feeding processed dog food. (Crossbreds will reflect their main breed in size and expected longevity.)

However, whilst the Species Appropriate Diet has been acclaimed by so many advocates world-wide to eradicate numerous ailments caused by inadequate nutrition, its affect on already initiated serious progressive disease can mostly only be considered to slow down the pace. Dogs who have previously suffered considerable trauma with resultant obvious compromised immune systems should not be taken for granted to make a total recovery just because they are now raw fed, and sadly those who do not will probably have reduced longevity as a result. The Diet is not a cure-all, but those serious diseases believed to be triggered by certain nutritional aspects are, of course, within its scope to keep the safety catch on those triggers.

It is thought that only several successive generations of natural feeding can hope to readdress genetic predisposition to serious disease, reversing the mutation that caused it in the first place, if you will, via totally healthy immune systems. However, in reality, this can only happen if all dogs in, say, a 4-generation pedigree are fed naturally. We are a long way off that!

As with very elderly people, very elderly raw fed dogs will need to have their diet tweaked to suit the winding down process of their twilight years. As they approach and pass the average lifespan for their type, two smaller meals per day, plus a 'blander' content will be required - less fat and less protein. Vegetable content can be slightly increased. At this time, teeth and body have become quite worn, and the dog will generally be looking after itself in everyday life - careful going up and down steps, getting into the car, going faster than a trot, laying down, etc., and being non-confrontational and less interactive with other dogs.

Whilst an Ancient should still be encouraged to enjoy a Species Appropriate Diet - after all, its got him this far - great consideration must be given to his ability to eat some of the components as time goes by. Chicken wings/legs/carcasses, fish and rabbit will eventually need to be very well broken up - into about one inch squares, with bone crushed, for a medium-sized dog - and harder bones removed completely, together with excess/tough skin and fat (breastbone and parson's nose for example). Lamb, pork and venison bones may simply be too hard to feed at all. Mincing meaty bones may be acceptable to an Ancient but taste/smell appears to change with very old age and sometimes they are averse to tucking into even small pieces of raw muscle meat, let alone sticky mince.

Rather than taking the easy way out and resorting to feeding processed dog food, every effort should be made to keep as many elements of the natural diet going as possible. The all-important chewing and ripping exercise has now stopped of course, but the nutritional benefits of chopped-up raw meaty bones are still there to keep digestive, immune and nervous systems as strong and healthy as possible. One way to get over the lack of appeal (should it occur) of raw food, is to smear with a small amount of canned dog food. A favourite of my 16 year old Siberian in this respect is the high moisture/low protein Cesar Senior menus in foil trays for small dogs. I use just half a tray to rub over the broken up raw meaty bones of her main evening meal to give them the taste/smell that does appear acceptable to her. Offal and muscle meat are acceptable when lightly cooked and chopped; raw egg when beaten and 'hidden' in veg.

Breakfast did cause a problem with this particular dog, wanting to eat but simply not desiring any 'wet' food at this time of day, even if coated. She now has a diced buffet pork pie, or cooked sausage or sausage roll, or any of our own left-over deli meats + wholegrain toast for this meal. But, hey, there is no comparison in the wild at this age; the most aged wolf has long since passed! Dry, cooked food is far from ideal of course and certainly not recommended as a staple diet, but it is still a world away from the dangers of kibble.

To assist the Ancient in the actual process of eating from his bowl, the bowl can be elevated so that it is level with the dog's elbows, or to a height he is most comfortable with. If he is apt to lose a foot on the floor surface whilst feeding, a non-slip mat can be used to support. The least strain on the dog's frame, the more enjoyable his meal will be, the more he can eat before tiring, and the prouder you will be of his continuing great age.

I have found quality magnetic collars to be worthy aids to the veteran working dogs when they finally retire, letting muscles down uniformly to the more sedate lifestyle, and minimising the effects of bone/cartilage/muscle degeneration. Periodic natural treatments such as Bowen Therapy are beneficial and those Ancients where musculo-skeletal disorders such as arthritis begin taking a firm hold and not responding to natural remedies, the tiniest daily amount of allopathic Metacam oral suspension offers acceptable control.

More Articles >